040605 Burbage North

Overview: I've walked straight passed the near end of Burbage North frequently - heading to either Knight's Move, or further to Nicotine Stain - and suddenly realised that there's a awful lot of rock nearer! Not really any proper classics (perhaps Banana Finger V3 6a), but quite a lot of stars none-the-less.

Tiptoe (1* VS 4c):

Led - amusing easy traverse, though with a not-so-4c first move and careful side-stepping, though the gear gets thankfully better further right. I had Nick lead it straight behind me, as you step off the end, and finish roughly standing at the same level. I ended up reversing it to remove all the gear and finished up on Stomach Traverse. Correctly stared.

Stomach Traverse (1* VS 4c):

Led - supposed to be done on hands and kness, and is a bit pumpy / grippy as a smearing hand-traverse. Rather bold as, even with a large (~size 4) camalot, you don't really want to spend the time placing gear. Leads to a large swing potential, but not ground fall (I think). Nick seconded

Pulcherrime (1* VS 4b):

Seconded (in flip-flops) - Just to take the piss out of Nick's first proper VS lead (after Tiptoe): his comment on seeing an old fellow fall off it on top-rope was "go on; it's only 4b"; so I insisted he led it! Nice decent ledges, ignore the description as a jamming crack, with a bit of a tall one for the top move.

The Busker (VS 4c):

Soloed - A few interesting moves using rounded flakes on a bit slabby wall. Fairly uninteresting, simply done 'cause it was there...

The Grogan (1* HVS 5b):

Led - lots of locked-off long reaches. Vice nice, but, for an 8m route, incredibly pumpy. Deserves more stars, and a hard HVS rating, if only for the top move (stay right of the horizontal V). Nick seconded (with the ease of a tall bugger)

Evening Wall (1* E1 5b):

Backed-off - Too pumped after The Grogan, and spent too long looking for the right move out of the break (severe ledge-itis). I believe the gear in the arete / break is valid, but no use of the arete is proper (i.e. don't go too far right). Very nice under-clung move into the hard section.

Ivy Tree (1* HVS 5b):

Seconded - Nick's first HVS. Hardest part is getting off the ground if your not 6ft+ tall! Well protected, but still a bit grippy - especially the reach left around the arete on the top. There is a the kneebar rest to find!!! Correctly stared.