051029 Millstone

Overview - Millstone is especially good if you want to work on finger-cracks. I can't jam to save my life, and feel Millstone is basically limestone climbing on grit, so I avoid this crag as much as possible... Which isn't really fair, as it's always good value. I had a look at Regent Str., a great looking E2 5c, but was very put off after my crack-line failure seconding Alun. Tried doing the low-level traverse from Oxford Str. all the way to Regent Str. Hard, fingery work.i (weeks later found to be V8 6c)

Technical Master (3* V4 6b):

Bouldered - A repeat, but it did seem much easier than I remember from two years ago... Might just be knowing the moves, but I remember thinking the left-hand side (V5) was impossible, whereas now it's just slightly too hard!

Tea for Two (2* E4 6a):

Seconded Alun - A great effort from Alun finishing off a New Year's resolution to onsight an E4. I was beaten by the lower crackline (E1 my arse), but then I was trying to layback it as usual. Standing in the upper scoop you have E1 finish right, E3 left, and E4 straight up... I stood there wishing I could move left - it looks really good - so I'll have to do that another time. The 6a crux is a long reach to a sharp pocket and small ledge, then just pull until your foot reaches something. A class climb by Al that I came nowhere near seconding clean. Possibly the hardest route I've ever been on...

Street Legal (E2 5c):

Solo - I did have a bouldering mat down for this one, but I doubt it would've stopped me without it. Nice thin step off the ledge, and then good holds and smears up to a slightly worrying topout. The E5 6b next door should go next time I'm there.