051112 Stanage High Neb

Overview - I'm going to have to be careful, otherwise I'll get a reputation for only trying overhangs! High Neb has quite a few easy slabs followed by body-length rooves. Unfortunately, it was quite rather cold, albeit bright, made worse by a high wind. By the time Darcy finished the first HVS, I needed to run a few easier routes to warm up enough to try a lead myself. Quietus, again, looks like one hard move, but falling into free space should ease anyone's mind. Impossibly Slab also looks good.

High Neb Edge (1* HVS 5c):

Seconded Darcy - The start to this route is mental. Darcy feel off it twice trying to reach out the arete, landing on the grassy area to the left (still a worrying fall the first time!). Third time, he asked for my bouldering mat, and on the fourth attempt he made it, but was so pumped he had to stand on the arete for half an hour before continuing. I couldn't actually reach the first hold on the start, so had to had to start up High Neb Buttress.

It's a Cracker (1* S 4b):

Solo - Done just to get the blood pumping and the fingers feeling the rock. Grade seems about right, though I wasn't paying that much attention to it...

Typical Grit (1* HS 4a):

Solo - Again, done as a warm-up. Very pleasant slab climbing, though on lead I would think it a little stiff and scary for the grade, as the gear is fairly space and poor.

Kelly's Overhang (3* E1 5c):

Led - I believe the original line of this route (given the "hint: stay low" in ROckfax) swings right under the second nose with a foot on the lower flake. Getting out over that foot is the crux, but the stand-up and top become a walk-off. I, however, think the way I finished it was far nicer ;-). The bridge is a beautiful rest if you're flexible enough and from there, just keep getting your feet higher until a balancy moves gets you standing up onto your right foot on the block I described moving under. Very, very nice moves and probably low in the grade the way I finished it. Darcy seconded, and it deserves all three stars.

Jeepers Creepers (2* E1 5b):

Failed - We'd watched a guy fail to get over the roof whilst having lunch and re-warming ourselves after High Neb Edge, and Darcy felt like having a go... Tons of bomber gear in the crack before getting a single hand-jam and reaching over the top with the right. Exactly what you do next stumped both of us, but I gave up after only one attempt due to failing light, escaping up the Severe next door (which I must think is hard at the grade given the lack of gear near the top!).