060513-14 Lazy Peak

Overview - What an overcast weekend. Rain overnight, but just dry and windy enough to let the grit still stick when/where you needed it. Admittedly, it did make everything perhaps a grade harder, but given that we didn't reach the crag on either day before 3 (I blame the Spanish F1), it was far more of a relaxing weekend than a real climbing one. Playing on the railways slab at the Black Rocks, then onto a very overcast Froggatt.

Route 2 (VS 5a):

Solo - Yep, the usual warm-up for the black rocks. Not too technical / scary, just nice rockovers all the way up the arete, moving rightwards to bigger ledges at the top.

Isle of Sodor (E1 5b):

Solo - I think I've finalled decided the delineation between the previous route and this one - whether this is right or not, I'll leave as a problem for the reader. The E1 line is whatever isn't the other two - climb direct between the crack on the left and the arete on the right, touching niether, except to use the large hold near the top for your right hand / foot (whereas it's for the left on the the HVS). I'm not convinced of the grade, but that's probably because I've done it so made times!

Route 1 (HVS 5a):

Solo - The start of this one became the crux, as it's standing on wet slopers, whereas higher up there are small pockets for the actual crux. The salvation of the finger locks in the upper crack also wasn't quite as pleasant as it usual is...

Oedipus Direct start (V2 6a):

Bouldered - One long reach and a bit of a haul gets ... ? The left-hand variation - using the pinch on the broad corner to rock over a small foot next to the huge undercling - is far better (and a bit harder!). Must get to trying the route proper at some point soon.

Long John's Slab (E3 5c):

Solo - This one feels very like a slightly harder version of the upper section of Brown's Eliminate. Get to a large ledge (okay BE gets gear at this point, but it wouldn't help on LJS) then make a delicate crux move to holds that slowly improve - just not quite quickly enough to stop you feeling scared. Just remember (for both) that it is a slab! Don't worry about the vegetation at the top of LJS, there are huge holds nicely positioned between the bushes...

Onsighted by mistake!