070526 Newstones

Western grit - couldn't resist of dropping into one of the less western grit on the way out to Wales, so chose the easiest to get to without having to hunt around too much, Newstones. Combined with Bladstones, the area could occupy a reasonably large group for quite a good day with lots of interest. Micro-routes and bouldering galore, and good rough grit to boot. Nice, but the top outs on the first outcrop, e.g. for Charlie's Overhang, really require a cool head or an army of spotters and mats! After this it was off the The Corner, but that's another story...

Moonshine (1* E1 5b):

Solo - This is E1, not HVS... The final move (be it soloing / bouldering / leading or other) is just on of those you have to have blind faith for. There will be a hold that's good enough to top out, but it takes a bit of finding and isn't very reassuring! Possibly sneaks into 5c, but I doubt it.

Praying Mantle (HVS 5b):

Solo - Definitely makes Moonshine E1 by comparison, though only slightly easier technically than Moonshine, at least you can gibber through the final moves in a balanced position, rather than having to surmount a buldge at the same time!

Uppermost Outcrop (V0-V4)

Bouldered - Some good steep problems with ledges/slopers. Varicose (V3 6a) is possibly the best, and can be used as a good warm-up to The Ripple just below. The rest is pretty much make it up as you go!