070810 New Mills Tor

Overview - It's always fun being introduced to new crags, and this one's great! What I wouldn't give to live a little closer such that I could visit regularly on an evening. Most of the climbing is slightly overhanging and strenuous, but for compensation you get more positive holds than you would otherwise expect. The crag's also in a great position, lost in trees beneath a huge road bridge, but you do have to put up with families walking past and starring / asking you if your mad / heckling (chavs - should be shot). The venue was picked by Hazel and Gavin (more UKCers), but they had to run off fairly quickly. Shame - there's a lot of good-looking lines!

Alcove Crack (3* HVS 5a):

Led - A bit strenuous for the first outing of the day, but the holds and gear are so good (with long-ish reaches between them), that you soon find yourself at the crux near the top slightly tired! Good route at the grade, though topping out into someone's back yard, and trouble with abseiling detracts slightly from the overall experience. Hazel seconded.

The Overlooked Groove (HS 4b):

Seconded Gavin - The whole wall under the bridge somehow seems enticing, even with the raw-sewage-smelling drips coming from above. Did this in sandals, so seems about right for the grade, and the abseil from the tree on the left is good fun!

Cracked Corner (1* HS 4b):

Solo - Definitely a better (i.e. more continuous) climb than the previous route, but all the holds are there to make it pleasantly easy. Descending down Original Route is even more fun...

Viaduct Wall (1* E2 5c):

Solo - Took a bit of up-n-downing to commit to the move to the slanting ledge, but unfortunately all the holds were well-ticked, such that the idea of on-sighting was a bit lost. The landing's good, so no mat is really needed, and the "precarious mantel" is nowhere near as bad as the move to the slanting ledge. 5c? Perhaps hard 5b.